Churchill’s: A pub to end all (American) pubs

The man was a cultural behemoth: five feet, eight inches of marbled marvel. And though he didn’t, by the average account, soar above his contemporaries, his disposition and mien were undeniably imposing. A cigar see-sawing in his teeth, a bow-tie haphazardly knotted in the concave of his neck, and a bald head that took well to unadorned, very British hats. He pulverized the Nazis, then took his tea.

And he said things like this to mistresses and madams, secretaries and heads of state — all who berated his over-zealous imbibing: “Madame, I may be drunk, but you’re ugly — and in the morning, I’ll be sober.”

A champion of the people and star of British history, the great Winston Churchill has inspired much since the mid-20th century. These days, his politics and bravado are revered with a near-cultish lust. But what gets us more excited in 2014 is his name on all things pub and beer.

Lately, I have taken to the British pub. Perhaps it’s because I recently watched Green Street Hooligans. Or perhaps it’s because my secret desire to be British can no longer be contained. Regardless, I recently had the joy of relishing a couple of pints and bangers at Denver’s newly-minted Churchill’s Public House. It’s nestled in an up-and-coming spot in LoHi — right across from LOLA and VITA. In better weather, it’s walking distance from downtown and from some of the apartments in the Highlands. But whether you drive, bus, or walk, it’s worth a stop — for a traditional British brew, and for a plate of some truly delightful English grub.

The atmosphere is almost dry — a fabricated space with adornments that nonetheless make it seems like a true pub. The rich woods are beautiful touches, and painted quotes from Sir Winston himself dock the walls for a colorful touch. The wrap-around patio is nice indeed, though off-limits in colder months. I trust that come April, May, June, and beyond, those seats will be some of the first to fill up in evening and weekend hours.

On the menu, the beers are what you might expect in an English pub: a gathering of some of the giants in sudsy culture on the Isle, include Newcastle, Samuel Smith, Fuller’s, and Boddingtons. There are welcome strangers, too — Stiegl, Stella Artois, Hoegaarden, and, if you happen in on the right day, some lucky Leffe. I’m more of a Belgian guy, so when I saw the beer menu leaning toward the lighter lager and ales, I was a bit disappointed. But let it be known: I’ve become a bit of a Stiegl fanatic since my two healthy pints at Churchill’s.

The food menu, meanwhile, is chocked full of what, I imagine, Churchill himself ate in a t-shirt and jammies on Downing Street slow days. And yes, there are “Rabbit Food” offerings for salad-cravers (the Farm Salad with turkey, mushrooms, bacon, spinach, and Swiss is tops), but if you come to a pub, eat the food of the natives. Id est: a Sausage Sandwich with sweet onions, or a whole plate of tender Bangers and Mash. Even the Indian subcontinent gets a nod with the Chicken Tikka Masala and Coconut Chicken Curry. Like most British-Indian fare, however, these two staples are probably more British than Indian.

What’s for dessert, you ask? Well, Churchill wasn’t a man with much inventive whimsy when it came to sweets, but he’d indulge the chef’s indulgences. As you should. So ask your server what’s on the menu for the day’s after-dinner treats.

Now I offer all this with the full understanding that most true pub men and women wouldn’t fret about the food. They’d be in for a pint and the game, to round down the day and catch up with friends. There’s room for all that here, too — what with the sprawling bar, a community table, and TV screens peppered throughout. Here’s the spot to catch some real football — none of that pigskin, helmeted nonsense Americans get on about. And whatever team you’re cheering, toast them with a frothy pint and a mind to the man who inspired this neighborhood taste of the Empire.