The New Old World

Everybody does Italian. And yes, it can be as sad as Spaghetti Factory’s over-soggy noodles and gummy meatballs, or it could be Mario Batali’s celestial Branzino. In most cases, it hits a stride somewhere between the two — it’s part American, part Italian and part… well, something else entirely.

In Boulder’s ever-growing culinary scene, there are a few standout Italian stops that warrant more than a nod and a mention. Are they completely, authentically, undeniably Italian — right down to the imported leather banquettes? Well, no. But does that matter? At Arugula Ristorante, for example, Italian cuisine is inspiration and a canvas — the creative impetus behind something uniquely delicious. That creativity bears the mark of visionary Chef Alec Schuler.

I spoke with Chef Schuler once on a slow Tuesday night in his restaurant’s understated dining room. It was drizzling outside — a typical Boulder fall evening — and waiters were lingering at the bar while exchanging laughs. From the back of the restaurant, Chef Schuler ambled out in unassuming measure, a quiet, subdued man without any sense of the “King of the Hill” mentality that mars many a successful chef.

He talked ingredients — not credentials, not big-name chefs, not self-awarded kudos. “The specials,” he intoned, hands on his hips and a wry smile on his face, “that’s where we shine.” And yes, he upheld some of the kitchen’s most popular creations, too; the housemade Gnocchi with a buttery bite of Gorgonzola and the sweet finish of pear is killer. And the Never-Ever Chicken Breast with earthy shiitakes and grilled asparagus? Tops with a creamy Chardonnay.

But Schuler’s specials — leaning on seasonal ingredients and his own whim — are a good test of the kitchen’s resourcefulness and artistic design. This past season featured a pastiche of robust seafood and local lamb, bolstered by wintertime berries and rich, heavy greens. The spring — a chef’s dream come true — is bound to showcase more white fish catches and vegetarian treats served in the raw.

And yes, you can find the Italian roots in the pennes and calamari on the menu. In fact, one of my favorites from Chef Schuler is the Housemade Mozzarella. It’s pliant, sweet, and gentle, smartly paired with the the un-Italian smokiness of bacon and the silk of a sunnyside egg yolk.

But rest assured that where Italian flavors tread, there’s no pretension. Italy doesn’t scream at you in the cuisine — anymore than the modest restaurant is cluttered with faux knickknacks and fabricated trinkets from the Old World. It’s simple, elegant, and comfortable, perfect for an impromptu gathering with friends, or a more intentional date night with a significant other.

There’s one more thing that commends Arugula to my palate: the cost. You pay for what you get, and while that sometimes amounts to a $30 entrée, the price tag never seem inflated or unjustified. In fact, Schuler has made dinner here absolutely possible — even as an occasional treat for strapped college students. Wednesday night offers 40% of all bottles of wine, and Monday’s “First Bite” offers devotees the chance to sample more for less — three courses at $27 per person.

At the end of the evening, it comes to this: If you’re looking for something absolutely, undeniably Italian, you’d best go elsewhere. But then, you’d be missing the humble and delectable passion executed by Schuler and his team. That’s worth several meals, if you ask me.