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The evolution and revolution of masculine fashion

The evolution and revolution of masculine fashion

Photo by Chad Chisholm. Photo background: Art installment, 72 Hour Hold by Dylan Scholinski Location: RedLine Denver 2350 Arapahoe Street, Denver

Photo background: Art installment, “72 Hour Hold” by Dylan Scholinski
Location: RedLine Denver
2350 Arapahoe Street, Denver

Willie Recht
Manager of Women’s Philanthropy at Allied Jewish Federation of Colorado

Matt Pizzuti: You wear a lot of traditional men’s clothes, but with a couple feminine pieces that mix it up and stand out – like the shoes.

Wille Recht: I like to push the limits of what people think a man should dress like. It’s not a political statement – I dress purely for myself – but there’s a sense of freedom that comes from being able to wear whatever you want to.

I get my toes done every month. They make me happy and I like to show off what makes me happy! I do wear women’s clothes sometimes…the definition is becoming blurry. I’m equally as confident walking in to buy a suit as a women’s scarf.

MP: Did you dress like that growing up?

WR: As a child, I used to sit and watch my grandmothers get dressed. I liked to just watch them become beautiful. Now I like to play with colors and patterns in the same way, without putting on a dress.

I’ve always liked flair but dressed more conservatively in high school, in a large part as a way to hide my sexuality – a lot of Jordans and Tommy Hilfigers. I became more confident and expressive as I grew into myself. I’ve been lucky to always have family, friends, employers, who allow me to express myself in ways that may not be typically mainstream or masculine.

MP: It sounds like family is particularly important to you – and a lot of the things you wear have a special family significance.  

WR: Most of my good stuff is from family. The suspenders were my father’s – you can’t go wrong with paisley, it’s fabulous. These are my grandfather’s tuxedo pants, and my grandmother’s antique YSL pin. It’s nice when I’m wearing something that may be not entirely ‘politically correct,’ and someone says something, and I can say ‘it was my family’s…they accept me.’ And I think putting it that way makes the person saying it more comfortable too.


Photo by Chad Chisholm. Photo background: Tiles, Mapping Infancy by Katie Caron Location: Center for Visual Art, Metropolitan State University of Denver 965 Santa Fe Drive, Denver

Photo background: Tiles, “Mapping Infancy” by Katie Caron
Location: Center for Visual Art, Metropolitan State University of Denver
965 Santa Fe Drive, Denver

Ashe Bowen
Hair Stylist

Matt Pizzuti: Tell me about your involvement in fashion and how living abroad has influenced it.

Ashe Bowen: I’ve always had this style – I feel like it’s been ‘preppy chic’ since middle school – but I lived in London for a year when my partner was going for a PhD, where the styles were more non–gendered. Coming back here, there’s no access to non–gendered fashion; it’s all so masculine or feminine. I see my own style as non–gendered rather than one or the other.

MP: So what is it mean to you to be in a photo shoot about masculine style?

AB: I think it was great that I was thought of for this! Although I probably appear to be more masculine than I am.

MP: What kinds of things are you doing with fashion? Can you talk about the blog you’re planning to launch?

AB: The blog is about promoting local design on the national level, and I’m working on putting together a runway show. I’m also working on an androgynous modeling agency – although androgynous is a dated word and that’s why I use ‘non–gendered.’ The goal is to transcend gender completely. Nothing like it exists – but that’s why I’m working on it.

MP: It’s hard to imagine what ‘non–gendered’ fashion looks like.  Is it clothing with no gender component whatsoever, or more of a conscious blending of pieces that are typically considered masculine or feminine? 

AB: It’s blending gender together in a way that appears less gendered overall. With the modeling agency, it’s for people who don’t look physically as masculine or feminine to model.

As a hair stylist, I started out seeing mostly lesbian clientele, who wanted a style that doesn’t necessarily have ‘masculine’ or ‘feminine’ attached to it. Sometimes lesbians would just get a men’s cut, but that’s not the same as these cuts, which could look non–gendered whether they’re on a man or a woman.

MP: Is this something you think the culture is moving toward already, or is your position about actively fighting for it?

AB:  I think it’s kind of happening – the more I get involved in non–gendered fashion, the more I see it everywhere.


Photo by Chad Chisholm. Photo background: Home is where there is Love by Inocente Izucar Location: RedLine Denver

Photo background: “Home is where there is love” by Inocente Izucar
Location: RedLine Denver

Mark Cameron
Interior designer, owner of Black Crown Lounge & Crown Accents

Matt Pizzuti: There’s got to be a story behind that pink cape.

Mark Cameron: I’ve had it for years; it was given to me by a friend who used to be a showgirl – handmade for her. It’s ancient, heavy and disgusting – I love it. There was a whole outfit with snap–off titties and all that. When I opened up my very first business on Colfax and Emerson, she was the lover of the girl who owned the T-shirt store next door. It’s kind of cool, because it was my very first business venture and they ended up being ‘family.’ She still comes to Black Crown Lounge a lot.

MP: Do you ever wear the cape?

MC: I wore it at the Pink Party this year. I try not to get rid of anything, ever, because you never know when you’re going to have some opportunity to wear it.

MP: How would you describe your personal style – and is there something you use your clothes to represent about yourself?

MC: It’s vintage – 100 years ago men’s clothing had a little more flare to it. I collect rhinestones, I like a lot of tuxedo shorts, a lot of French cuffs. I always felt it was really unfair that men’s clothing was boring and women’s more colorful. In history, or even in nature, it’s the males who are showy.

MP: Do you see your style as redefining a social concept of masculinity, or just dismissing it altogether?

MC: Well I’m not a drag queen – not coming off as a female persona – but it’s theater. The people I hang out with aren’t going to be turned off by the idea of a man not being ‘masculine.’ Like Ru Paul said, ‘We’re born naked, the rest is drag.’

MP: So you’re saying that whether someone’s style is ‘mainstream,’ or more eccentric and unique, it’s all still some level of performance?

MC: That’s how I look at it. I’m not outspoken; I don’t need to talk about myself but I show it through clothing. I’ve not seen anybody that does anything much like I do.


Photo by Chad Chisholm. Photo background: Beauty in Transition by Jody Wood Location: RedLine Denver

Photo background: “Beauty in Transition” by Jody Wood
Location: RedLine Denver

Morris Price
District Director for Congresswoman Diana DeGette

Matt Pizzuti: What do you call your look, and what did your personal style develop from?

Morris Price: Urban professional. All my jewelry’s from my dad – when he buys things, it’s quality. Dad was in the military, so I like form, but then I twist it up. I like traditional style with a little bit of mix and clash, like a bright pink shirt under a very traditional gray suit. I’m not afraid of color. I like the mix of fabric with suede shoes.

Matt: Is that careful mix of professionalism and flair a statement about who you are?

Morris: I like to challenge perceptions. I’m a little bit of a contradiction as a gay black male. At a meeting I might be the only African-American in the room, so I already stand out anyway. So I guess, yeah, it is a statement about who I am.

Matt: When would you typically wear something like what you’re wearing now?

Morris: I run a congressional office, and of course you have to wear a tie. I’m representing the congresswoman. But I might wear what I’m wearing now at fundraisers, art events, cocktail parties, when I’m representing me. It’s more of a professional image and then more of a community image.

Matt: How do you describe the difference?

Morris: I think of the structure of any professional clothing as being more traditional, but what you might see different on me is a little bit of color. Socially, it’s still structured – I like loose linen, wider pants – just a little bit of structure. It’s a little unpredictable.

When I go out I don’t want to be defined professionally and just talk about work. But you want to stand out just enough – not so much that it’s a distraction from what you’re there for.

Matt: So it’s all about balance.

Morris: In the end it comes down to confidence. You don’t want to spend 10 minutes on something as small as trying to pick out the right pocket square, when in the end no one will notice. People might not pay as much attention to you as you think they’re going to.


Photo by Chad Chisholm. Photo background: Library/conference room at Red Line Location: RedLine Denver

Photo background: Library/conference room at Red Line
Location: RedLine Denver

Zach Vrba
Waiter

Matt Pizzuti: What do you call this look?

Zach Vrba: I’m maybe a little boho, but it depends on the day. I’m really casual, but with a pop of color. I mostly wear neutrals, with a little color like right now – black with really blight blue. I also like a lot of gray and navy.

MP: An idea that keeps coming up here is a question whether we’re abandoning the need to look ‘masculine,’ or just expanding its definition. Do you see your style as masculine?

ZV: No! I kind of mix and match with male and female pieces. My style is more breaking out of masculinity than redefining it. I get a lot of flak for it, but I don’t care – when someone makes fun of my style I kind of rebel and put it out twice as hard.

I’ve been dressing like this for the last five years; I was more ‘Abercrombie–esque’ in high school and later I started to switch it up. I think it’s funny that people gave me flak for dressing like this four years ago, and now I see a bunch of people doing it.

MP: How would you define masculinity in the first place?

ZV: There is no definition. It could be your attitude, or your manners – there are so many levels of it. I think most people think masculinity is a suit and tie, or business sportswear, but nowadays you can twist it up.

MP: How long do you spend getting ready?

ZV: For work, 30 minutes. For play, probably an hour. I like getting ready – it’s that time to yourself when you can do what you do and no one’s there to critique you.

MP: How do you dress differently for work?

ZV: I work at a restaurant, where I’d wear dark skinny jeans, just chucks and a polo. I dress according to occasion; I feel more comfortable when I’m not dressing for work – then maybe skinnys and a tank top.

MP: Are you conscious about how you want to be perceived?

ZV: I just go with it. It depends on the event, but it’s not really about how people see me.


Photo background: Capitol Bonus Army Single, Washington DC 11/10/11, 3:00 p.m. by Lauren Bon and the Optics Division Location: RedLine Denver

Photo background: “Capitol Bonus Army Single, Washington DC 11/10/11, 3:00 p.m. by Lauren Bon and the Optics Division”
Location: RedLine Denver

Jody Bouffard
Owner of Blush & Blue

MP: Where did you get that belt buckle?

Jody Bouffard: At a random antique thrift store in rural Vermont, visiting where I grew up. BMW stands for ‘Below My Waist’ – a real lesbian right here!

MP: What else does your fashion sense say about you?

JB: I’m a jeans and tank top kind of girl. It’s all about comfort. I don’t shop in the girl’s department, unless it’s for bras and underwear because then I don’t have a choice. Women’s clothes suck, for me – there’s nothing about them that I like.

MP: Do you see your style as masculine?

JB: I see it as ‘futch’ – femme and butch together.

MP: Did you make that word up just now?

JB: No, I think it’s in the Urban Dictionary.

MP: What’s your take on masculinity?

JB: I define it as energy, my energy. I think I’m more masculine than most men, which can be intimidating sometimes. But it’s not what defines me – it’s what I need to prove myself as a business owner since it puts me on an equal playing field with men.

MP: So does that differ from who you feel you really are, or from your style?

JB: Well sometimes I feel like I was born in the wrong body – not transgender, although as a kid I sometimes thought I was more like a boy. I guess I was just supposed to be a woman but with some masculine characteristics. When it comes to style I do like shopping at thrift stores and boutiques, and always wear rings and necklaces and bracelets – I suppose that’s femme. I’d also shave my head if I could but it wouldn’t look good on me.

MP: Is there any time you recognize someone else’s style sense as similar to yours?

JB: Gay men. I love gay men’s style, they’re the best dressers and I enjoy their fashion. I like to get the outfits on the mannequins at Express – not individual pieces; I’ll just ask for the whole thing.

My style is still from me, though. I feel like my style is as unique as I am, and I try not to copy anyone’s.


AimeeFashion4

Photo background: “Epiphany” by Jane Thomas
Location: Center for Visual Art, Metropolitan State University of Denver

Post-Gender Post Script

“People just don’t care as much about gender anymore,” said Aimee Zawacki, 24, a bartender and graphic designer who lives in Denver’s Capitol Hill neighborhood. “There are lots of important things going on out in the world, and someone doing something new with gender isn’t hurting them.”

Still, in a photo project about “masculinity” – and asked to alternately depict her interpretation of her own masculine and feminine sides through clothing – Zawacki was ready to provide her take. “People look at me differently depending on whether I’m wearing masculine or feminine clothes – when I’m more feminine they look at me like this Barbie doll with super–blonde hair. I’m a tomboy at heart, and somewhere along the line I became a super–girl. I like to think I try ‘butching it up’ a bit here and there – there’s always got to be something that’s not 100 percent girl.”

She said it goes back to what she appreciates in others, including people she’s attracted to. “I like when people gender–bend a little bit: some femme qualities in men and masculine qualities in women,” she said. “I think it’s sexy when people bend it up in some way.”

Zawacki is one to disregard labels in general, including for herself. “’Bisexual’ is the term people use for, like, college girls in their dorm room – maybe that’s just my sense of it but I don’t like the way they’re using it, like it’s just a phase, but it’s not,” she said. “I think the word ‘queer’ is easier to use.”

“For me the issue is people don’t look at me and peg me as queer. They don’t think I’m someone who would be attracted to women, so with women I do all the work introducing myself, and I try to hint at some weirdness.”

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