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Ease and Wine

Ease and Wine

In vino veritas, they say. But that’s before the fourth-glass-of-wine shenanigans and, after an intellectual debate on the political implications of nuclear proliferation in third-world, sub-Saharan Africa. As we all know, only the high-browed, over-achieving, high-earning, astutely-cultural pundits of the world truly know how to drink wine.

Poppycock.

If there’s anything my tenure in the culinary world has taught me, it is that most prescriptions for drinking wine are bunk. You enjoy what you enjoy, and that’s the starting point.

But suppose you’re interested in refining your palate — not to meet the membership requirements of salons on global politics, but to know what to pair with that oven-baked salmon on a Wednesday night. Well, let’s start with the basics.

White Wines

These are generally more à la mode amid the hoi polloi of the drinking world — Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs, and Pinot Grigios at their core. In general, consider Chardonnays the red meat of the white wine world … heftier, and often strongly oaked. Once upon a time, American vintners went to town on these grapes, oaking them until you couldn’t taste anything but the barrels they languished in. They boast a bit more nuance now, but Chardonnays are still the most oaked white out there.

Then we have Sauvignon Blanc — the white fish of the white wine world. Naturally, it pairs well with a great deal of seafood, but also is a keen couple for chicken dishes and lighter fare. There’s a lot of minerality and citrus in these bottles typically, which means that they stand up best to lighter proteins donned with creamier sauces.

Last of the three amigos is Pinot Grigio — the vegetarian’s white. Wine Enthusiasts are wont to call this a “zippy” varietal, but in my experience, the citrus is down-played and the fruitier stone fruits come to the fore: peaches, nectarines, etc. There’s even the playful presence of melon in many vintages, which makes it a mellow sipper as well as a gentle partner for simply prepared halibut or tilapia, garnished with nothing more than a few herbs. This is also a great pair for vegetarian dishes; personally, I enjoy it with roasted root vegetables.

There are other whites out there worth exploring, of course. I occasionally crack a bottle of an apple-y Chenin Blanc or a floral Viognier. But these are more seldom treats in the wine canon, and often are enjoyed only when expertly suggested by a sommelier. Oh, and lest I forget, save your sweet Gewürtztraminers and late-harvest wines for dessert. They’re much sweeter on the tongue — too overbearing for a savory entrée.

Red Wines

The intense and complicated world of red wine is often too much for neophytes to handle. Instead of learning about the characteristics of each grape, many just stumble across a bottle they enjoy and continue to drink that until it ceases to exist. I know — I’ve done it.

But let’s dabble in diversification, highlighting three more varietals that are central to the world’s red wine portfolio: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir.

Ah, you Cab, you. Typically layered and rich with licorice-like accents, Cabernet Sauvignon is often more dense and fruity stateside than in Europe. Part of that is drinker preference; we Americans like our high-octane (14 or more percent alcohol), fruity wines. But in that mix you’ll find notes of berry jam, cassis — even some herbaceousness. It’s hard to give this one a set food pairing, but it often goes well with tomato sauce-based pasta dishes, heartier poultry, and red meat.

Merlot, on the other hand, is apt to be more fruit-forward than a Cab. It’s a decadent wine by U.S. accounts, and even has a greater depth in other countries. This is a great aging wine, but if you’re intent on drinking it right away, find a hearty steak begging for a match. Be sure to taste before you pair, however, to be sure that the spicing on the meat matches the fruity notes of the wine. Also keep in mind: there have been an impressive collection of Merlots coming out of Washington state recently, so watch your labels.

Last of the red triumvirate is Pinot Noir, easily the lightest of the three varietals on this list. For some, it comes across too light and fragile — almost like a white wine wanna-be. In truth, however, it’s delightful to have a red that suits brothy soups with aplomb, while also taking on risottos, roasts — even some Asian noodle dishes. To give you a fitting visual, it’s been dubbed “the iron fist in the velvet glove.” There’s a lot going on here, but the best are smooth as silk.

Other reds to keep your eye on: Syrah, a rich, vaguely spicy wine reminiscent of Port. It goes great with chocolate, I dare say. Malbec is also a delightful treat, though kicks with a bit of sourness every now and then depending on the bottle. Otherwise, it’s a close cousin to Merlot
in my mind.

Well, there you have it — a blitzkreig tour of red and white wine for those aiming to dig deeper. By all means, have another glass. Sample. Pour. Repeat. And if you’re really intent on learning the flavor profiles, remember that a spit bucket is also de rigueur — especially if you’re exploring in a winery’s tasting room.

Cheers!

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