The Spice of Wash Park Grey Cactus
Was there any doubt that Grey Cactus, or “Gey Cactus” as they lovingly hashtag on Instagram, would be a success? After all, in a city like Denver where tacos and small plates dominate the food scene, what’s one more taco place for the hungry citizens of the Migh High? I’m just saying, they could have phoned it in and the throngs of taco lovers would have still come.
But they didn’t phone it in. Because, come on, when you spend that much time and effort opening a restaurant, you want it to be there for quite a while. Like a good cocina and bar, Grey Cactus is tiny but mighty, bringing a sense of urgency and exclusivity to the restaurant: Get in now or wait and wonder later.
Of course, there are margaritas on the menu and tequila drinks, as you would expect, but there are also a few fun cocktails that don’t revolve around tequila, because what if you’re not a tequila fan? It’s a good thing I’m not not a tequila fan, and that I’m also a fan of all the members in the alcohol family. The Hombre-hattan is one my personal favorites. It combines Penasco Reposado with Moda Black Tequila, Cocchi di Torino, sherry, and orange bitters for a unique twist on the traditional Manhattan. For those looking for something a little sweeter and perhaps more appropriate for a sunny spring or summer day of patio drinking, you can always order a Paloma, or Mexican Mule, or even a Juan Daley to sit and sip on Grey Cactus’ gorgeous patio.
Let’s talk menu for a minute: It’s obvious that the menu is fun, easy eating, and meant for you to pick and choose your path for the evening, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t take it seriously. There are a smart variety of all things familiar, and the Pozole is an item that (despite the weather changes) I can’t stop thinking about. It’s a hot soup with chicken, pork, hominy, tomato, tomatillos, garlic, and all the other deliciousness I won’t bother to bore you with. Warm. Seasoned to perfection. And any pozole lover’s dream.
Into the guts of the menu, you’re either going to taco or not. Tacos come a la carte and can come in the form of tacos, sopes, or tostadas. The cochinitas were warm and tender, only amplified by the delicious addition of pickled red onion and cilantro. For the vegetarians at the table, the rajas taco features a blend of poblano peppers, corn, tomato, onion, garlic, zucchini, epazote, and a queso fresco garnish. But the true star of the evening was the simple-but- tasty chicken tinga taco which, at first glance, is easy to discount as something you may have had before, but it’s a familiar flavor bomb that hits in all the right places. A little spice and you might find yourself wishing you had ordered just one more.
This only marks the beginning for this Wash Park destination. If the kitchen team and front of the house can weather the crowds and keep consistency a priority, there’s no reason to think Grey Cactus won’t be around for a very long time. And soon not only will they be calling it “Gey Cactus,” but so will all the hordes of homos, like myself, who will find ourselves lined up for a coveted table inside this spicy neighborhood hotspot.
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