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Richmond 2017: The South You Didn’t Know

Richmond 2017: The South You Didn’t Know

The charm and hospitality of the South are legendary: broad tables with rich food, stately colonial architecture, soft beds with mahogany bedframes. If you’re not from the South, you might have a moment’s hesitation and wonder, does the same hospitality apply to queer and trans visitors?

The good news is that certain Southern cities never signed toilets into the law books, and Richmond, Virginia went even further by coming out of the closet.

In 2014, Richmond’s regional tourism board penned a series of letters to D.C., Boston, and Atlanta, as well as to celebrities like Oprah, Andy Cohen, and Ru Paul.

“I’m gay,” they wrote to Ellen. “Not in a Los Angeles way. That would require beaches. I’m still me. Just gay.”

So I went to find out how gay Richmond really is.

Richmond’s Roots

I’m a little skeptical, TBH.

Sure, John Rolfe was the first to make a bid for “Love is love” when he asked King James if he could marry Pocahontas at his nearby plantation. But Jefferson Davis didn’t just randomly choose Richmond as the capitol of the Confederacy.

Midway through our whistle-stop tour of the city, Bill Martin, director of local history museum The Valentine, announced, “I just don’t feel like faking it today,” and redirected our bus to neighborhoods in the thralls of gentrification. Ain’t nobody here into Flannery O’Connor-style mystery and manners, at least for their own sake.     

The Valentine is committed to realness and relevance as it tells the story of all of Richmond’s history. Its current exhibit on Richmond families — It’s All Relative: Richmond Families (1616-2016) — includes the exhibition One Love: LGBT Families by Richmond photographer Michael Simon.

“The concept of family within the LGBT community has historically and, out of necessity, been flexible,” explained Meg Hughes, Curator of Archives at The Valentine. “After coming out, many LGBT individuals are ostracized from their family and friends. However, everyone needs love, and the LGBT community has been actively creating support networks for decades.”

These exhibits are not to be missed.

What to see, Who to Do

Though Richmonders are surrounded by a rich and complex history, everyone here seems more excited about what’s coming next, led in no small part by the makers, chefs, artists, and designers of the city.

As I left the Rooftop Bar (one of the best views of the city), I witnessed a man telling his friends why he left D.C.

“I tell everyone I can that this is the place to move. Richmond’s the only place I want to be.”

Last year, Richmond capped a five-year project that brought 100 new murals to the city — it looks a bit like Denver’s RiNo Art District everywhere. This strong art culture isn’t surprising: the city is home to Virginia Commonwealth University, the top-ranked public arts school in the U.S., as well as the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (don’t miss their Fabergé) and soon the Institute of Contemporary Art.

For folks who get bored inside museums, Richmond has a ton of things to do outside. One of the best places to run in Virginia, Richmond boasts miles of trails along the James River. It’s also the only metro with whitewater river rafting in the heart of the city. And we’re talking class-five rapids.

The best place to shop is Carytown, home to many boutique shops. The girls at Bygone’s vintage clothing store were very friendly, and Mongrel, one of many LGBTQ-owned shops, had the perfect gift selection. If you stay downtown, fellas, take a walk after morning coffee to see the local shops. You can get fitted for a new tailored shirt or sport coat at the Ledbury HQ. It’s spring, girl. Show off those arms.

After shopping, get yourself ready for a night out. Like other U.S. cities, Richmond’s gay venues were underground 50 years ago, but folks now have many options. Babes in Carytown was the local lezzie bar that drew the widest crowd. The college set, gogo dancers, and drag queens were out in full effect at Godfreys, while Barcode, which also has a restaurant, was better for mingling.

Oh Yeah, You Might Get Hungry

Richmond foodies know how to eat, so you’ll have plenty of options. The oysters at Rappahannock Restaurant will make you want to live closer to the ocean.

Lunch at The Daily is fresh, vegetarian-friendly, and delicious. I had the incredible scallion pancakes and dry-fried eggplant at Peter Chang’s, whose James Beard Award-nominated owner calls Richmond home.

If you’re looking for classic southern food in style, try Lemaire, with farm-to-table meats, wild-caught seafood, and delicious cocktails (whiskey lovers, get the RVA Boulevardier). If there’s one place you absolutely cannot miss, it’s L’Possum. On our visit, chef-owner David Shannon was walking around in a Tom of Finland-print chef-jacket.

“It’s Pride Week,” he said with a grin. Though Shannon’s food and cocktails have earned a James Beard award, his restaurant’s overall aesthetic will also make you swoon. Unicorns, beefcakes, and rainbows bedeck the walls, and the naughty menu had us in titters. You might order Shiny Blue Ball for a cocktail, followed by an entrée like the Big Easy Blackberry Brined Quail — “Semi Boned & Sausage Stuffed, Astride Filthy, Dirty Naughty Rice, Crawdaddy Bisque & Lavender Pickled Okra” — and end your night with Hot Black Bottom A La Mode. This place is often booked two months in advance, so plan accordingly.

Where to Stay (We Didn’t Say “Sleep”)

If your boyfriend gets teary-eyed to Rufus Wainwright or your partner loves pretty things, Quirk Hotel is your getaway. A former department store turned gallery turned art hotel, it’s bright with modern rooms that look straight out of Dwell Magazine. Each room features unique furniture and pieces from local designers and artists.

For opulence, stay at The Jefferson, a sumptuous estate downtown (rumor has it that travelers dropped off baby alligators on their way North, which the Jefferson kept and raised in its fountains). Their tea room’s vaulted ceilings are perfect for gossip or a kiki, and its bedding will make you never want to leave.

If you go . . .

United currently has direct flights to Richmond for under $400 round trip throughout the spring and summer. If you’re still not convinced that Richmond is queer enough, its Pridefest is on an island each September, and that’s pretty fabulously queer.

You already know everyone in Puerta Vallarta…Try Richmond.

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